This is a factual letter from Hawaii
The names of the spots have been
Changed to protect the locals...
Howzit, bruddah?
Peter and I went out to Hana Bay last Wednesday
It was a perfect 6 foot down the line and crowded
I went out at Sugar Shack which was 5 foot
And semi- closing out. It was fun, a little better
And faster than that first day we went out
But definitely not as juicy as the last
Longboard Larry and Amazing Mike paddled out
The sets were OK, but it was a long time between waves
Three days ago was the biggest swell of the year
Animal and I drove to Hana Bay, but it was 20 foot
And unrideable (whitewater everywhere)
We drove back to Cracks and it
Was 5 to 6 foot with 3 guys out
They paddled in and I talked to them
In the morning they said it was 3 foot
When I first got there it was 5 to 6 foot
J.P. drove up and we both decided to go out
And we saw an 8 to 10 foot set break across the bay,
Nobody was out and we started paddling out
When we saw an easily 10 foot wave break across the channel
While waiting for a set of at least 6 waves to stop,
I started getting sucked out to the point on the right
In a river riptide. I paddled back to the beach realizing
That it was peaking or still getting bigger
J.P. paddled out, caught 2 waves and came in,
As it was too freaky and hard to line up with nobody out
About an hour later it got really crowded and cleaned up a bit
Jerry Mopehead went out so I took pictures of him and
Max and a lot of other hotties. One guy got washed up
On the rocks below me. He was lucky
At least the rip didn't drag him out to sea
Cords were useless. They snapped like peanut brittle
I heard the second ditch at Ammunition Dump was good on Sunday
Also that the left near the sewage treatment plant,
Which rarely breaks, was good
Well that's enough news for now
Gotta get back in the water...
Aloha!
P.S. Don't come over here!
compositores: D. Dragon
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